I had planned this trip to sites in Mississippi and Arkansas with the expectation that the Spring weather would be just right. Early April may still bring snow and cold to areas further north, and I already had visited most of the other southern sites east of the Mississippi River.
Needless to say, I was a bit concerned as the weather in that area for several weeks prior to my trip feature extremely severe thunderstorms and numerous tornados. Thankfully there was no severe weather during my 18 day excursion. I had a few cloudy days, and heavy rain that started the moment I left Vicksburg, but nothing that disrupted any of my visits.
Civil War battlefields in the east – Gettysburg, Antietam, Fredericksburg, and others – tend to be well known by most people. Shiloh and Vicksburg, visited on this trip, are two major battles in the Mississippi River theater, but Corinth, Brices Cross Roads, Tupelo, and Arkansas Post saw important and strategic battles, but are far less known. These sites were also part of my trip.
Tupelo may be the smallest National Battlefield in the Park system. It literally sits on a corner lot in the downtown area of Tupelo and consists of a monument and two cannon. The battle, like nearby Brices Cross Roads, was crucial in the Confederate attempts to support forces opposing the Union army and General Sherman in Georgia, as well as the Union efforts to prevent that support. Ultimately, the Union success secured the flanks of Sherman’s army in its famous march to the sea.
Three sites – Gulf Islands National Seashore, Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home National Monument, and Vicksburg National Military Park – were added to the trip after I chose to skip them a year earlier before my back surgery relieved the back and leg pain I had.
The Evers home is a new addition and there are no Park Service facilities there as it still sits on a residential street with neighbors all around. The house itself is mostly a photo op. The information about not only Evers but the Civil Rights struggles in general are found at the nearby Mississippi Civil Rights Museum, which far exceeded my expectations.
Little Rock Central High School rounded out the Civil Rights sites on this trip. As I read about what nine high school students had to endure just to get a basic education, I could only shake my head. How do you justify the virulent hatred of anyone, let alone school children, simply because of their skin color, by the Democratic Governor, Democratic Senators, and State Democratic Party in Arkansas?
This trip did offer some nice scenery. I followed the Natchez Trail Parkway for its entire length from Natchez to near Nashville, venturing off on side trips to several other sites along the way. Though there are no sweeping vistas, the Parkway has its own beauty as it passes through forests and farmland of Mississippi and Tennessee.
Buffalo National River in northern Arkansas allowed me to experience the springtime beauty of the Ozark Mountains and the Buffalo River, protected in the 1960s when a strong push was made to turn half of the river into a dammed lake. I’m grateful that idea failed allowing me some 60 years later to enjoy the river naturally flowing as it has for centuries.
Gulf Islands National Seashore is my third National Seashore and all have provided more than just nice white beaches without miles of hotels right next to them. In this case, the site includes Fort Pickens, which provided coastal defense in the 1800s as part of the string of forts build down the Atlantic coast and across the Gulf of Mexico.
Hot Springs National Park was the only National Park on this trip. It’s an interesting mix of the manmade and natural. The bathhouses offer a glimpse into the past of the resort area, while the hills surrounding the city provide hiking trails and views of the surrounding lands. What I found most interesting was learning that the water coming out of the springs has generally been percolating underground for centuries.
When I left Vicksburg, my last site on this trip, and headed home, I had just visited my 90th site since my adventure began. By the end of my next trip, I will surpass the 25% mark. It seems like a lot, but it has all been fun and I look forward to the remaining 75%.
Steve
